East vs. West Algarve – Why Tavira Always Wins My Heart

Let’s get one thing out of the way: the Algarve is beautiful. All of it. From the rugged cliffs of Sagres to the sleepy lagoons of Cacela Velha, Portugal’s southern coast knows how to turn on the charm. But – and there is a but – not all Algarve is created equal. I’m talking about the age-old debate: West Algarve vs. East Algarve.

If you’ve ever found yourself sipping vinho verde in Lagos and wondering if you should hop over to Tavira next time – the answer is a resounding yes. And I’ll tell you why.


The West: Dramatic and… Busy

There’s no denying that the West Algarve has wow-factor. Towering cliffs, crashing Atlantic waves, surfer dudes, and Insta-friendly beaches with names like Praia do Camilo and Benagil. It’s bold, it’s breathtaking, it’s… a bit much, sometimes?

Sure, the sunsets are glorious, and there’s always something going on. But there’s also traffic, tour buses, parking drama, and more inflatable unicorns than you can count. It can feel a bit like the Algarve on caffeine. Great for a few days – exhausting after a week.


The East: Easy Does It

Now let’s talk East. As in: Tavira, Cabanas, Santa Luzia, and the kind of peaceful vibes that make you forget what day it is. No towering cliffs here – instead, you get sweeping salt flats, wild flamingos, sleepy fishing villages, and island beaches that stretch on forever.

The pace? Slow. The people? Smiling. The food? Just-caught, simply grilled, and ridiculously good.

And Tavira? Oh, Tavira.


Tavira: Queen of the East

If the East Algarve is a gentle lullaby, Tavira is its refrain – charming, timeless, and just the right amount of alive. Cobbled streets wind past faded blue azulejos, lazy riverside cafés beg for long lunches, and the Roman bridge acts like it’s been posing for postcards since forever (because it basically has).

This is not the place for pub crawls or pool parties. Tavira is for long walks, golden-hour photos, octopus in olive oil, and glasses of white wine you didn’t plan on but suddenly need.

Here, locals still greet each other by name. Market vendors remember how you like your figs. Life is a little softer, a little slower – in the best possible way.


So… Who Wins?

If you want drama, surf, and big tourist energy – go West. If you crave calm, charm, and authentic soul – come East. And if you want to fall in love with Portugal all over again?

Tavira is waiting.


Curious about where to eat, sleep, and sunbathe in Tavira? Stick around – I’ve got plenty of tip on this website.

With sunshine,
A.

Pego do Inferno: Tavira’s Hidden Waterfall & Its Legend

Tucked away in the countryside near Tavira lies a slice of nature legend: Pego do Inferno , or “Hell’s Pool.” Once a popular swimming spot, today it’s more of a secret pilgrimage—quiet, wild, and wrapped in mystery.


🏞️ What is Pego do Inferno?

  • Located on the Asseca stream in Santo EstĂŞvĂŁo , just 7–10 km northwest of Tavira , Pego do Inferno consists of a modest 3‑meter waterfall flowing into an olive-green plunge pool, estimated to be around seven meters deep .
  • The falls are part of a trio—including Cascata da Torre and Cascata do Pomarinho —all created by water flowing over calcareous tufa formations along the stream.

🕯️ The Legend Behind the Name

According to local lore, a carriage once plunged into the pool and neither the vehicle nor its passengers were ever recovered . Divers reportedly couldn’t find the lake’s bottom—so it earned the dramatic name, “Hell’s Pool”

Some say hidden underwater passages connect to nearby rivers like the Guadiana or GilĂŁo, though no proof exists beyond storytelling.


đźš§ Why It Remains Mostly Closed

  • In 2012 , a forest fire swept through the area, destroying the boardwalk, bridge, stairs, and facilities that once made the waterfall easy and safe to visit. The municipality officially closed the area afterward and never rebuilt the infrastructure.
  • Since then, efforts to reopen the site under safe conditions have stalled due to drought , lack of water flow, private land negotiations , and priority projects funded by the Recovery and Resilience Plan (PRR).

đź§­ Visiting Now: What to Expect

Although officially closed, Pego do Inferno still attracts adventurous locals and holidaymakers who navigate informal paths and dense overgrowth to reach the pool.

Taste Tavira by Annick desribes how to find it.

AllTrails users describe:

  • Overgrown trails through bamboo and citrus groves
  • Stream crossings becoming impossible in winter or bad rain
  • Risky, unclear terrain and degraded trail infrastructure

Tripadvisor reviewers echo concerns:

  • In wet seasons, paths are hazardous
  • In dry seasons, the waterfall may be reduced to a trickle or a stagnant green pool
  • Trash and poor maintenance also worry visitors \.

đź—ş Planning Your (Responsible) Visit

If you’re drawn to hidden spots and you’re well-prepared:

TipNotes
Footwear Wear sturdy shoes—trail is uneven and slippery.
Waterflow timing Best after recent rainfall; drought years may leave little to see.
Safety Bring water & snacks, avoid solo visits, and respect “no entry” signs.
Timing Spring and autumn offer the best balance of water and navigable trail.
Access routes Park near Santo EstĂŞvĂŁo/Tavira outskirts using GPS and follow local informal directions

Tasting Tavira’s Salt Soul: A Visit to the Historic Salt Pans

There are many things that sparkle in the Algarve sun—ceramic tiles, whitewashed rooftops, chilled vinho verde… But none quite like the salt flats of Tavira. Just a short walk or cycle from the old town, these shallow pools shimmer with a history and craft that stretch back centuries. If you’re curious about where your flor de sal comes from—and you fancy a peaceful stroll with flamingos for company—this is your sign to explore Tavira’s salty soul.


✨ Ancient Tradition in Every Grain

Tavira’s salt pans have been used for salt production since Roman and Moorish times . Even today, the process remains charmingly low-tech: sun, sea, and wind do most of the work, while local salt workers—called marnotos—rake the gleaming crystals by hand.

The real treat? Flor de Sal de Tavira . This delicate salt “flower” forms on the surface and is skimmed gently using wooden tools. No additives, no industrial machinery. Just pure, sea-born flavour.


đźš¶ How to Visit (And When To Go)

You can explore the salt flats freely by walking or cycling along the Ecovia Litoral trail . From Taste Tavira AL , head toward R. Eng. JoĂŁo Bruno da Rocha Prado, and continue on gravel paths. Best times? Early morning or sunset , when the pools glow pink and gold. July, August, September and early October are the harvest months.


📏 Birds, Colours & Calm

The salt pans aren’t just about salt. They’re part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park , a Ramsar-designated wetland teeming with birdlife. Depending on the season, you might spot flamingos, herons, avocets or even spoonbills, wading delicately between the glinting pools.

And then there’s the colour: subtle pinks, dreamy turquoise, even rusty reds—all caused by natural algae and minerals. Bring your camera, or better yet, a moment of stillness.


🚢 Want to Go Further?

If you prefer a deeper dive, local outfits like Monte da Ribeira (near Estoi, by car) offer sometimes guided salt-harvesting experiences (€28), complete with tools, history, and hands-on raking (yes, you can try it!). Check for actual information.

Or visit Salinas do Grelha (OlhĂŁo), where you can also float in a mineral-rich salt lagoon (think Dead Sea… but Algarvian!).


🌿 Salt That Tells a Story

Back in town, look for locally harvested flor de sal at artisan shops or farmer’s markets. This is salt that speaks of place: sea air, sun-drenched patience, and the quiet determination of marnotos.

A visit to Tavira’s salt pans isn’t loud or flashy. It’s slow, grounding, and strangely moving. Just you, the wind, the birds, and a glint of salt underfoot.


🌳 Pomar dos Sabores – Orchard of Flavours – A Taste of Algarve’s Biodiversity

Tucked just a few kilometres from Tavira, Pomar dos Sabores —also known as the Orchard of Flavours —is a beautiful living experiment in sustainable fruit cultivation and agroecology. It’s not your average orchard—it’s a botanical playground bursting with exotic fruit trees, wildlife, and educational inspiration.


🌱 A Living Botanical Garden

Founded in January 2019 , Pomar dos Sabores is a non-profit edible botanical garden certified by Botanical Gardens Conservation International in November 2022 . Spanning 2 hectares , the orchard hosts more than 300 species of fruit trees, ranging from mangoes and lychees to pomegranates and starfruit—each carefully chosen to see what thrives in our Mediterranean climate.

It’s designed as a living classroom: guided tours, self-guided visits, food tree safaris, interactive nature trails, and hands-on workshops in propagation, permaculture, and water-saving techniques.


🧠 Meet Miguel — The Founder’s Vision

Under the leadership of Miguel Cotton , the team at Orchard of Flavours brings passion and scientific rigor to their agroforestry work. Miguel and his team pursued an agroecological approach from the outset: contour-based planting zones developed to prevent erosion, ground cover for soil health, drip irrigation systems, compost ditches, and banana circles for fertility—all shared openly with gardeners worldwide.

Miguel’s commitment is to show that sustainable fruit production in Europe is possible , and that others can replicate these methods in their own gardens or small farms econtigo.ptOrchard of Flavours.


🌿 What You’ll Experience

  • Guided or self-guided tours across diverse planting zones (citrus groves, tropical fruit zones, neglected Mediterranean varietals) with detailed background on each species.
  • Tasting sessions , where you can sample freshly harvested fruits and discover new flavours—often from rare and region-adapted cultivars.
  • Educational workshops —from seed propagation to food forest creation—open to gardeners and curious visitors alike.
  • A public database of over four hundred plants, detailing soil preference, irrigation needs, and climate adaptation data for each species.

🗺️ Sample Visit Outline

ElementExperience
Guided Tour Learn about diverse fruit zones and tree lore
Fruit Tasting Sample exotic varieties—like criollo cacao or cacao pods
Workshop (Optional) Dive into composting, micro-irrigation, water-saving techniques
Picnic or Relaxation Rest under shade trees and soak in the orchard atmosphere