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Exploring the Algarve by Train: From Tavira East and West

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There’s something quietly magical about riding the regional train through the Algarve. No traffic, no rush — just the rhythmic hum of the tracks and a slow parade of landscapes slipping past the window. From Tavira’s charming station at 400m from Taste Tavira AL, you can head either east toward Vila Real de Santo António, or west to Lagos. Both directions promise their own delights.

🌅 Eastbound to Vila Real de Santo António

The journey east takes around 25 minutes, with frequent daily departures. It’s a short but scenic ride through salt flats, citrus groves, and sleepy hamlets of the eastern Algarve.

Recommended stops along the way:

  • Monte Gordo: A touristic beach town with golden sands, perfect for a seaside break just minutes from the station.

Once you arrive in Vila Real de Santo António, the streets open up in clean lines — a legacy of Enlightenment-era urban planning. Sit for a bica on the grand square, or stroll the riverfront promenade along the Guadiana River, just steps from Spain.

🌊 Westbound to Lagos

Heading west is a longer ride — nearly three hours, often with a transfer in Faro. But the trip is more than transport; it’s a slow dive into the changing rhythms of the Algarve.

Where to stop along the way:

  • Fuseta: A charming fishing village known for its fresh seafood and calm beaches, easily reachable from the station.
  • Olhão: Known for its lively fish market and traditional charm, this coastal town invites you to explore its tiled streets and sample fresh seafood.
  • Faro: The Algarve’s capital with a beautiful old town, historic walls, and a vibrant café culture — a perfect stopover.
  • Portimão: Famous for grilled sardines and riverside dining, it’s a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy local flavors.

Arriving in Lagos, you’ll be greeted by golden cliffs, cobbled lanes, and a laid-back surf-town vibe. It’s worth staying a night if you can.

🎟️ Travel Tips

  • Tickets are affordable and can be bought at the station or online at cp.pt.
  • Trains are comfortable, though simple — no reserved seating, but plenty of charm.
  • Schedules vary slightly on weekends or holidays, so check ahead if you’re planning a longer day out.

Whether you’re seeking beach time, history, or just a slow way to see more of the Algarve, the train from Tavira offers a window onto the region’s quiet beauty — one stop at a time.

Why the Portuguese Love Their Coffee (And How to Order It)

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In Portugal, coffee isn’t just a drink — it’s a ritual, a social anchor, and a moment of pause built into daily life. From early morning until late evening, cafés are buzzing with people stopping in for a quick bica or lingering over a galão with conversation. It’s common to have several small coffees throughout the day, always freshly made, and always strong.

But don’t expect a large takeaway latte. Portuguese coffee culture revolves around small servings, often enjoyed standing at the counter. The most popular is the bica — similar to an espresso but slightly smoother. A pingado is a bica with just a drop of milk, while a meia de leite (literally “half of milk”) is half coffee, half milk served in a cup. If you prefer something creamier and larger, ask for a galão — usually served in a tall glass, ideal for slower mornings.

Coffee is often paired with a small pastry — but when and how depends on the time of day. In the morning, locals might start with a meia de leite and a pastel de nata or a croissant misto (with ham and cheese), usually eaten quickly while standing at the bar. Around 4 or 5 p.m., it’s time for lanche: a kind of Portuguese afternoon tea, but simpler, faster — and with coffee, of course. A sweet pairing like a mil folhas (millefeuille) or a coconut queijada is common then.

After lunch or dinner, however, no sweets are involved. Just a small, sharp bica — served almost as punctuation to the meal. Occasionally with a splash of port or medronho, but never with dessert.

In Tavira, our favourite spots for coffee and observation are Pastelaria Tavirense, just steps from the Roman bridge, where you’ll hear a soft clink of espresso cups all day long — and Padaria Vila Doce, where locals come for fresh bread and stay for conversation over their regular order. It’s not about how much coffee you drink, but how often you pause to enjoy it.

Olhão: A Day of Discovery by the Sea

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Pronounced “ol-yow” (with a soft ‘L’ and nasal ‘ão’), Olhão may be one of the Algarve’s most authentic coastal towns. Just a short drive or train ride west of Tavira, it’s an ideal day trip for those seeking a blend of maritime culture, Moorish architecture, fresh seafood, and vibrant street life. This working town has charm, no polished charm, but in personality — it feels real, lived-in, and full of stories.

Start your visit at the legendary waterfront market, where locals shop for just-caught fish and colourful produce each morning (especially lively on Saturdays). The twin red-brick buildings — designed by Gustave Eiffel’s studio — are architectural icons in their own right. Sit at one of the cafés outside with a bica and pastel de nata, and enjoy the view of fishing boats gently rocking in the Ria Formosa lagoon.

From there, stroll through the historic bairro dos pescadores — the old fishermen’s quarter — where narrow cobbled streets twist past flat-roofed whitewashed houses with North African influences. It’s an Instagrammer’s dream, but also a living neighbourhood full of character. Keep an eye out for street art, tiled facades, and local craft shops tucked away in quiet alleys.

No trip to Olhão is complete without stepping onto the water. Ferries and water taxis run frequently to the nearby barrier islands of Armona and Culatra, where time seems to slow down. These islands offer some of the best beaches in the Algarve — wild, unspoiled, and perfect for a relaxed afternoon swim or seafood lunch by the sea. If you have time, hop across to both and compare their laid-back vibes.

Back in town, stop at one of the many seafood restaurants lining the promenade or hidden in side streets. From grilled sardines and clams à Bulhão Pato to octopus and razor clams, Olhão’s cuisine is deeply rooted in the sea. Pair it with a chilled white from the Algarve and you’ve got the perfect end to your visit.

Whether you’re wandering the market, sipping coffee by the docks, or catching a ferry to paradise, Olhão offers an experience that’s honest, sensory, and unmistakably southern Portuguese. It’s not just a place to visit — it’s a place to feel.